When you order a chardonnay in a restaurant, what do you expect to get? A wine with “chardonnay” on the label, right? We guess that would be obvious — but it isn’t.

The waiter could bring you a chablis or a Macon Villages and he would be bringing you a chardonnay. Unfortunately, many diners don’t know that these French wines are made from chardonnay. Yet they are very special chardonnays, and in the case of Macon, they represent some great values.

We love the mineral notes in a good chablis, but recently we have tasted a number of wines from Maconnais at the pleading of a reader who thought them superior. Indeed, there are some excellent chardonnays coming from this undervalued region of Burgundy.

Located south of the Cote d’Or, the Maconnais wine-growing region was once known for its red wines made from gamay grapes. Today, however, it is the largest white-wine region in Burgundy. Although still plagued by making too many generic chardonnays, several producers have been responsible for improving the quality of these often overlooked wines. Hooray for them.

The 43 villages in the Maconnais are divided into seven designations: Macon, Macon Superieur, Macon Village, Pouilly Fuissé, Pouilly Loche, Pouilly Vinzele, and Saint Veran. American consumers put Pouilly Fuisse on the map in the 1980s when they were enamored with pronouncing the name. But some of the great gems in this region are found in Macon and identified by the village that appears on the label. Among those we often see are Macon-Clesse, Macon-Vivre and Macon-Lugny.

Most producers eschew oak barrels in order to retain the crisp acidity that is preserved in stainless steel or glass-lined concrete vats. Lately, however, we have seen the introduction of oak in some of the better wines. Oak can give the wine dimension and complexity, although too much of it will mask the clean, crisp flavors that we like so much from Macon chardonnays.

These are great bone-dry wines to sip but the better ones serve as an excellent complement to fish and fowl. Unlike the oaky, slightly sweet California chardonnays, a Macon has unadorned simplicity with vibrant acidity — great qualities to compliment food.

Here are some of our favorites:

Verget Macon-Charnay 2005 ($22). Jean-Marie Guffens added this label in 1990 with the intent of making the same quality of wines as those made under his name. They speak to the unique terroir of the vineyards and are among the best in the Maconnais. This one has floral aromas and peach, pear flavors.

Verget Macon Vergisson-La Roche 2005 ($25). More complex that most Macons, this chardonnay has a rich mouthfeel yet good acidity and lots of pear and apple flavors.

Manciat Pontet Macon-Charnay 2007 ($19). One of the best producers in the region, Manciat is one of the few to still harvest his grapes by hand. He presses whole clusters of grapes, grown on old vines, which brings out the bold flavors we so enjoy. Citrus notes with a creamy finish.

Domaine Pollier Macon Villages 2008 ($15). Daniel Pollier is the fourth generation of his family to farm this property. He makes a terrific, crisp chardonnay with pineapple aromas, pear and apply flavors and a dash of oak.

Feuillarde Macon-Prisse 2007 ($20). Simple, but very quaffable wine with balanced acidity, a touch of oak and wonderful apple flavors.

Faiveley Macon Village 2007 ($20). Apple flavors and a good dose of oak.

Other wines

J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($40). With a heavy injection of petit verdot (22 percent), this Napa Valley wine has great complexity with notes of cassis, cherries, allspice and vanillin oak. For thoe of you who like cabernet franc, try the 2005 J. Lohr Cuvee St. E ($50) from Paso Robles. The 45 percent cabernet franc gives the wine great aromas and structure. The rest of the blend is petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

Blackstone Winemaker Select Pinot Grigio 2008 ($12). With five grape varieties in this motley blend there is a broad spectrum of summer flavors: pears, apricots, lemon and more. Good acidity keeps it fresh.

Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($40). This gem from Washington is more than just a beautiful label. Blended with petit verdot, cabernet franc and merlot, it hs rich complexity, forward black berry flavors and a touch of plum, currant and chocolate.

J Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2007 ($28). The sur lie character of this chardonnay and a long malolatic fermentation gives it an luxurious, lush texture and broad palate. Citrus, peach, toasty oak and creme brulee with a dash of nutmeg.

Beckmen Vineyards Cuvee Le Bec 2007 ($18). Fans of this producer, we love what Beckmen is doing with Rhone varietals. The wine is built around 44 percent grenache but gains compexity from syrah, mourvedre and counoise. Bright berry flavors with spicy oak.

Leeuwin Estate Siblings Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion 2006 ($20). We loved this complex blend from the Margaret River region of Western Australia. Bright fruit flavors characteristic of the varietals: freshly mowed grass, apples, limes and crisp finish. The 2004 Siblings Shiraz ($20) is equally powerful with opulent blackberry and plum fruit sprinkled with allspice and cinnamon. It’s a steal.