Blackstone is one of those behemoth California wine brands that pumps out tons of wine to slake the thirst of parched Americans. Owned by Constellation Brands — which also owns wine brands such as Robert Mondavi, Clos du Bois, and beer brands Corona, and St. Pauli Girl — this winery annually produces about 1.4 million cases of Blackstone wine.

A very small part of Blackstone is the Sonoma Reserve line of wines that are crafted by winemaker Gary Sitton at their winery in Kenwood in the Sonoma Valley. Only about seven percent of the total Blackstone case production goes into these Sonoma Valley appellation wines with grape sources from all over the valley used as a “palette and spice rack” to fashion the wines. Gary is a veteran of the venerable Ravenswood Winery where he experienced first hand the grape growing microclimate diversity of Sonoma County.

We recently met with Gary and sampled the new releases that are currently coming into the market from Blackstone’s Sonoma Reserve line. We really liked the Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($16). This is a very well balanced wine that is handpicked cool, at night, barrel fermented with partial malolactic fermentation, and aged on its lees in barrel for 11 months. The result is a real nice mouthfeel, with lemon notes and a nice creamy mouth feel. Interestingly, Gary adds 3 percent muscat grapes to the blend which he says “lifts the fruit without being noticeable as muscat.” A very nice summer sipper.

The Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 ($21) is a well-made, medium-bodied example of this varietal — 93 percent pinot noir and 7 percent syrah. Gary uses a fermentation mixture of 60 percent crushed berries to 40 percent whole berries to create this cherry scented and flavored wine with a nice cinnamon spice component. As the “Sideways” phenomenon fades, Gary told us that he is getting better prices and better access to pinot noir grapes.

Merlot is the touchstone for the Blackstone brand and the Sonoma Reserve 2007 ($16) version is a credit to the varietal. Gary adds 7 percent cabernet sauvignon, 6 percent ruby cabernet from 50-year-old vines, and 2 percent petite verdot to complete the blend.

Coincidentally, we had tried this same wine at a steakhouse a couple of weeks ago and we were very impressed with its compatibility with prime beef. The wine displays a very nice cherry fruit nose, and flavors with a hint of herb and cocoa that add a very nice element of complexity. A very nice wine at a recession busting price!

Wine picks

Quivira Grenache 2007 ($26). This Dry Creek Valley producer continues to amaze us with its excellently structure and expressive wines. This red grenache has all the luscious fruit of its French cousin but adds more texture. Intense in strawberry and berry fruit, it has the body to go with a lot of summer foods.

Cardinal Zin California 2006 ($20). Using grapes from old vines — some as old as 100 years — this zinfandel sports ripe blackberry and plum fruit, lots of spice a touch of sweet vanilla.

Silverado Miller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($23). A serious, more complex sauvignon blanc, Silverado shows off lime and melon characteristics and crisp acidity. Blended with 7 percent semillon.

Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($45). Medium body, floral  and cedar nose with forward dark berry flavors. Very delicious wine from Spring Mountain near St. Helena.

Dievole Chianti Clssico Vendemmia ($25). Dievole has some very nice wines ranging in price from $10 to $50 for its reserve chianti. We liked this premium wine for its Tuscan feel, earthy character and copious dark berry flavors.

Robert Mondavi Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($28). The Mondavi operation certainly has had its problems reestablishing itself after the death of its patriarch, but this wine demonstrates the juice is still good. Part of the wine uses grapes from the estate’s To Kalon vineyard. Concentrated, raspberry and plum fruit with big tannins to make it a keeper. The 2006 Mondavi merlot ($23) is equally good with softer tannins and expressive blackberry flavors.

Seven Hills Pinot Gris 2007 ($16). This Oregon wine sports the luscious, ripe fruit with pear aromas and spicy oak, vanilla notes. Bright acidity rounds out the finish and makes for a good match with summer food.

Abadia Retuerta Selecion Especial 2006 ($20). A great value from Sardon de Duero in Spain, this excellent blend of tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot has soft mouthfeel and luscious berry fruit.