New Orleans, the city “that care forgot,” took a knockout blow from Hurricane Katrina and went down for a count of nine, but its deep-rooted love of fine food provides the nourishment needed to regain its footing.

Dee and Tom have just returned “Naa'th” after five meaningful days in Tom's native city, long referred to as “La Nouvelle Orleans.” His pilgrimage was highlighted by hard labor for Habitat for Humanity, and topped off by an intimate family dinner at The Upperline Restaurant in Uptown, where he “grew up.”

JoAnn Clevenger, the charming owner/founder of this small, superlative French-Creole-Cajun marvel, with her upswept Gibson girl hairdo, went back to business less than two months after Katrina's near kiss of death. She typifies the city's Renaissance. Commander's Palace, the larger landmark restaurant, was called the “grandmommy of creative Creole cooking” by the Times-Picayune, the city's Pulitzer Prize-winning daily. But it needed 13 months to reopen.

She learned fortitude and food from two grandparents, Allie and Annie. Impressed by her andouille gumbos and seared foie gras, Dee and Tom asked JoAnn for a special recipe ideal for children and grandchildren. She divulged a childhood favorite, prepared almost daily by Grandpa Allie to welcome her home from school in Northern Louisiana.

Sweet Potato Boats

2 medium sweet potatoes

1/4 teaspoon vanilla flavoring

2 teaspoons melted butter

pinch of salt

fruit (choose one)

1 finely grated peeled apple or

1 finely diced (1/2”) banana

Bake unpeeled potatoes at 350 degrees F until soft (about 1 hour). Cool and cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out flesh. Save skins. Mash potatoes with a fork. Add vanilla, butter and salt. Mix and add a fruit. Spoon mixture into the skins and reheat in 350 degree oven. Tiny marshmallows can be put on top before reheating. Serves 4. Ideal for supper or a side dish, and easily made by or for children.

JoAnn is typical of the new New Orleans elite, a self-styled “entrepreneur” as well as a well-rooted Creole cook.

Her success made Tom feel guilty that after being dragged away at age 5, he too didn't come back to stay.

Grand Remark of the Week

Barbara Kafka, the cookbook writer, once told me, “Food does not exist alone: it is in everything we do.” -- Ken Smith, chef at The Upperline Restaurant, New Orleans.