It’s popular nowadays to dislike chardonnay. Although not the most widely planted grape variety in the world — that title belongs to airen, if you’ve ever heard of that — chardonnay still enjoys great popularity in this country. Order a white wine in a restaurant and most likely you’ll get a chardonnay.

Chardonnay got a late start in this country. In 1965, it comprised only 4 percent of California’s vineyards — the mission grape was the most common grape then. By the 1980s, though, grape growers were planting more of it as they began to focus on quality. Chardonnay was recognized as the grape used to make prized burgundies and luxurious champagnes.

However popular the grape has now become in this country, we find too much similarity between chardonnays. Maybe the predictability of the grape should at least give comfort — you generally know what to expect. As for style, though, they are generally common, unlike what you find in sauvignon blanc.

We’ve been tasting a lot of chardonnays in the past several weeks. As the weather gets warmer, chardonnay tends to often occupy our tables because it is such a universal food wine. It can go with fish and fowl effortlessly, and those are the foods that we like to throw on the grill.

Many producers are now making unoaked chardonnays, which do well with food. Oak can easily mask the delicate flavors of a fine chardonnay. That has often been the case with Australian chardonnays, although producers there have thankfully cut back on their oak.

And then there is the issue of residual sugar. Because Americans seem to enjoy their sweets, many producers make chardonnays with just a touch of sweetness — perceptible at .5 percent, or 5 grams per liter. Most consumers won’t pick up any sweetness, but the flavors are often rounder in the mouth. Without any acidity to balance the sugar, chardonnay can be too flabby to match with food. Fortunately, top producers make their chardonnays bone dry.

Here are a few chardonnays we recently tasted and liked. Start your engines.

Talbott Vineyards Kali Hart Chardonnay 2006 ($19). Talbott makes consistently good chardonnay in the prime Santa Lucia Highlands. As an entry level wine, the Kali Hart is a great value. Tropical fruit and ripe melon notes with good acidity and hints of pears and mineral. Rich mouthfeel and layered fruit make it a winner. If you enjoy this chardonnay, you may want to step up to the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($43) — a big chardonnay with more complex and concentrated flavors.

Hess Monterey Chardonnay 2007 ($11). Hess always impresses us with its value chardonnay. For this price, you will get a light-body wine that makes for a great sipper or with simple fare. Tropical fruit and citrus flavors.

Hess Su’skol Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($25). This is a step up from the producer’s starter chardonnay. The Napa Valley vineyard produces exquisite and ripe tropical fruit flavors with a hint of orange zest and good oak.

Jordan Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2007 ($30). Aromas of pear and citrus followed by apple and pineapple flavors. Good balance of creamy texture and acidity to keep it food friendly.

Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 ($17). Forward pineapple and tropical fruit flavors with a hint of melon on the nose. From New Zealand, it is a good example of how well chardonnay can do without the presence of oak.

Markham Napa Valley Chardonnay 2007 ($20). Markham continues to impress us with their great values. This chardonnay has stone fruit and vanilla aromas followed by ripe apple flavors. If you like a little oak in your chardonnay, this is a good choice.

Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Chardonnay 2007 ($18). From Washington’s Columbia Valley, this chardonnay has ripe tropical fruit flavors, including pineapple, and soft mouthfeel.

Dry Creek Vineyard Russian River Valley DCV10 Chardonnay  2006 ($30). An excellent value, this solid chardonnay has integrated tropical fruit flavors and apricot aromas.

Starmont Merryvale Chardonnay 2007 ($20). Bright pear and apple flavors with baked apple spice and mineral notes. Great match to chicken.

Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2007 ($18). We liked this South African wines for its unique character and flavors. Creamy texture with apple flavors and a hint of butterscotch.

Gordon Brothers Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($23). The apple flavors are obvious, but we loved its nuances that include nutmeg, coconut and vanilla. Rich mouthfeel with a crisp finish.

Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($12). The flavors exceed what you would expect from a wine at this price. Ripe apple flavors with citrus notes and a hint of mango. A little residual sugar gives it generous mouthfeel.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2007 ($11). Apple and pear flavors and a creamy texture with a long, off-dry finish.

Lockwood Vineyard Monterey Chardonnay 2007 ($12). A good value, this simple and medium body chardonnay sports peach flavors with a hint of vanilla and mineral. A nice sipper, if that’s your pleasure.