When faced with an overabundance of grapes, growers sometimes have to choose between pulling vines or making more wines than can be sold. If you are dependent on winemakers to purchase your grapes, conflicts can easily happen between grower and winemaker. Australia, for instance, asked growers to pull vines in 1986 and 1987 in response to a wine glut that left the marketplace awash in unsold and mediocre bulk wine. Some growers complied, some didn’t.

One that declined was Peter Lehmann who protected his growers in the Barossa Valley and found a way to use all the grapes they could produce. Not long after, Barossa became known as a premier wine-growing region and Lehmann was well established.

It was not the first time that Lehmann was faced with overproduction. In fact, big crops in the 1970s caused a split between Lehmann and his superiors at Saltram. Instead of refusing to take all of the grapes, in 1979 he formed his own company and found investors to save the growers from financial disaster.

Even in 1992, Lehmann struggled to remain afloat by going public to absorb the loss of a key investor.

The point is that somehow Lehmann manages to stay alive even in the worst of times. He does so with simple wines that are value priced and readily available. But Lehmann winemakers also strut their best stuff in some low-production gems that are more complex than what you expect.

Recently we tasted some of their current offerings and want to share our comments on three wines that we recommend.   

Peter Lehmann Layers Adelaide 2008 ($18). A wonderful mélange of  pinot gris, muscat, gewürztraminer, chardonnay and semillon that creates a unique floral flowery nose and a delightful fruity white wine with peach and melon flavors. Good acidity keeps the ripeness in check. Drink this wine with Asian food or just serve it as a summer sipper.

Peter Lehmann Shiraz Barossa 2006 ($16). This is a pretty simple fruit driven wine that pleases simply because it tastes great. Rich berry nose, and flavors in a mouth pleasing package. Try this with summer gilled burgers or steaks.   

Peter Lehmann Shiraz Stonewell Barossa 2004 ($75). The grapes that go into this wine come from select vineyards, some with vines planted in 1885 and low average yields of 1.5 tons per acre. This is a powerful wine with classic syrah notes of cassis, cherry, vanilla, and mocha, with a hint of cedar. Pricey but awesome.

Sequoia Grove     

Sequoia Grove winery continues to produce top quality cabernet sauvignon from its winery situated in one of the last stands of redwood trees in the Napa Valley. We recently tasted two current offerings. Following are our  notes:   

Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 ($45). An inviting nose of cherry, spice and eucalyptus. Big crisp cherry flavors with a bit of cedar. A wonderfully balanced and delicious package.   

Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Rutherford Napa Valley 2004 ($59). Intense pleasing cherry plum nose. Big expansive sweet fruit in the mouth with cherry, and cassis flavors. Although this is a bold wine, it is not overbearing. Great structure and pleasing style, with a long finish.

Other wines

J. Lohr Petite Sirah Tower Road Vineyard Paso Robles 2006 ($23). If you want to experience one of the best pure California petite sirahs, give this wine a try. A classic petite sirah nose of blueberries and sandlewood. Opaque color and dense flavor of dusty, ripe blueberries. This is a terrific wine to try now, but one that will also age effortlessly for at least 10 years.   

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 2006 ($26). Very expressive ripe black cherry nose and flavors in an elegant oak frame. Just a good Napa cabernet sauvignon that would go well with any red meat dish.

Matanzas Creek Winery Merlot Sonoma County Bennett Valley 2005 ($37). The blend is 85 percent merlot, 12 percent cabernet sauvignon and 3 percent syrah. Cherry and mature oak nose. Expressive complex cherry flavors in the mouth that really add up to a terrifically pleasing wine.       

Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005 ($33). Bright cherry nose with a hint of mint. Exciting cherry fruit presence in the mouth with nice length. A very pleasant and fairly priced wine.

Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Napa Valley 2006 ($30). This historic winery has had its struggles reclaiming title to one of the best in Napa Valley. After years of mediocrity, it appears to have a decent offering with this 2006 cab. Complex black cherry nose with a hint of oak. Forward, ripe and rich black cherry flavors in the mouth and robust tannins. Hold this wine for at least 2-3 years to see how it matures.