The Wine Guys
By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr

Most wine enthusiasts are familiar with the Tuscany and Piedmont regions of Italy. But what about Trentino, the mountainous region with 300 lakes tucked in Italy’s northwest corner? Do they really make wine here?

It isn’t easy with so many hills and mountains, but, yes, they do make wine here.

We recently met with Andrea Faustini, winemaker for Bottega Vinaia, who was in town to introduce several new vintages of red wine.

Red wine is a challenge in this region, but that’s not the only hurdle for Faustini and export director Massimiliano Giacomini. It’s owner, Cavit, is known more for its cheap supermarket wines. More daunting is getting consumers in this country to try obscure grape varieites, like lagrein and teroldego.

The son of an enologist, Faustini spent several years at prestigious wineries like Marco Felluga and Bellavista before joining up with Cavit — a large cooperative that has contracts with about 4,500 of Trentino’s growers.

Cavit wanted to diversify its portfolio and prove to the wine world that they could make quality wines — a path once taken by the Gallo brothers who likewise wanted to prove to the world that they could make a $70 cabernet sauvignon. We hope Cavit has more success.  Changing an image is not easy, but Faustini represents a younger generation ready to take the challenge.

Faustini says red and white grapes were grown indiscriminately in the region for years. But in the past 20 years, growers shifted to white grapes, which now account of 60 percent of the wine produced in the region.

Bottega Vinaia’s pinot grigio — one of the best we have tasted — demonstrates its ability to make white wine. Red wine made in this area will be a bigger challenge.

Because of the soil and climate, the grapes produce simple wines that emphasize elegance over body.  Cold nights and high temperatures during the day make for medium-body pinot noir, but not bold cabernet sauvignon.

More than 80 percent of region is covered by mountains and the hillside vineyards defy mechancial means of harvesting. The labor that goes into growing the grapes is intensive.

Faustini says winemakers like himself are given a lot of help from San Michele all’Adige, a viticultural school in the region that works closely with growers. Its research has helped growers understand the best areas for their grapes.

Here are tasting notes for those of you who want to try something different:

Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio 2007 ($18). Intense and tantalizing aromas is enough to sell us on this beauty. But the flavors didn’t let us down either. Fresh acidity gives it the body to serve alongside food. Finally, we found a quality pinot grigio we like.

Bottega Vinaia Teroldego Rotaliano 2004 ($20). Floral, raspberry aromas are followed by fresh berry flavors, a dash of licorice, a long finish and good tannin to give body to the wine. Teroldego rotaliano is a native grape similar to syrah.

Bottega Vinaia Legrein 2005 ($20). There is more complexity here with violet aromas and fruit-forward wild berry flavors. Good acidity.

Cavit Collection Arele Vino Santo 1997 ($90/500ml). Sporting an elegant label, this sweet after-dinner wine is simply exquisite. Deep gold color, honey and almond aromas and rich apricot and peach flavors. Very nice.

Wine picks

Bodega Septima Gran Reserva Mendoza Argentina 2005 ($25). The blend is 55 percent malbec, 34 percent cabernet sauvignon and 11 percent tannat. Cherry, cassis and oak nose with bold ripe fruit flavors firm tannins and a long finish. Pair with bold beef or game dishes such as venison.

Chateau St. Jean Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2004 ($24). Luscious cherry and ripe strawberry nose with lively strawberry jam flavors, in a mild oak frame. Serve this with poultry or salmon dishes.               

Artezin Petite Sirah Mendocino County 2006 ($25). Another winning wine from the Hess Group. Deep dark color with dense ripe fruit cassis nose and flavors. Well balanced with good acidity, and would be a great match with grilled red meat.

Sbragia Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyards 2005 ($50). Black cherry, and ripe plum nose. Big bold mouthfilling oak, and black fruit flavors. Classic delicious California cabernet sauvignon from a classic vineyard. Good now, but will age and mature for at least 5-7 years.   

Cupcake Vineyards Chardonnay Central Coast 2007 ($15). This is for those fans of big style, full blown, California chardonnays. Citrus oak nose and flavors with a nice creamy element in the finish. Try this with barbecued chicken.   

Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sonoma County 2004 ($52). Berries and lead pencil in the nose and mouth in a somewhat lean style that is appealing. Nice long presence in the mouth that would pair well with beef dishes both roasted or off the grill.