We recently wrote about torrontes, Argentina’s best known white grape variety. This week, we’d like to expand our thoughts on malbec — that country’s well-known and increasingly popular red grape.

In the last week, there have been no fewer than four times that someone has asked us for our thoughts on malbec. Obviously, people are experimenting with different grape varieties and have found something to like — besides the price — in malbec.

Known by different names, malbec is popular in France’s Bordeaux and Cahors regions. One of the five noble grape varieties in Bordeaux blends, it’s role was relegated to add depth to the wine’s color. While grown in Bordeaux, it does not perform well by itself and its thin skins make it susceptible to rot and skin break.

We have been plowing through a number of Argentinian malbecs in recent weeks and have been struck by the range of quality. The worst of them are green — as if from grapes grown on young vines — and astringent. Some have vegetal aromas. But the best are ripe and lush, characteristics that indicate the grapes are getting more hang time on the vines.

They can be full-bodied and rustic, but at the other end of the spectrum we have found many that have less body and a more jammy character.

Malbec was falling from favor in Argentina when the export market developed and wine enthusiasts took a liking to this grape variety. Now, it has secured a strong foothold in Mendoza, located alongside the Andes Mountains.

The characteristics malbec is most known for is its plum, blackberry and anise flavors. These can be enjoyed as apertifs or served alongside grilled beef, wild game and lamb.

Here are some of our favorites:

Maipe Malbec 2008 ($11). Blueberry and red currant aromas are followed by plum flavors, a hint of chocolate and fine tannins to make it an easy wine to sip.

Colores del Sol Malbec Reserva 2008 ($12). Grown in vineyards planted 3,500 feet high, malbec gets a lot of sun and dry climate here. The fruit fully develops into juicy blackberry and cherry fruit. Round mouthfeel and hints of coffee and spice. Floral aromas and deep color. Very good.

Agua de Piedra Reserva Malbec 2007 ($12). One of the great discoveries of wine importer Touton, this beauty sports blackberry and dark cherry fruit with a hint of chocolate. Full bodied, it will age well but is showing good fruit now. It would be an inexpensive but delightful wine to serve with steak.

Colome Malbec Estate 2007 ($27). Made up of 85 percent malbec, 7 percent tannat, 7 percent cabernet sauvignon and 1 percent syrah. This vintage will not be released until this month, but promises to be a beauty. Nose, flavors of cassis, violets and black pepper with dusty tannins mark this wine as one to seek. The 2006, still on the market, is very good too.

Diseno Malbec 2007 ($13). Always deep in color, malbec offers some of the great flavors in wine. Cherry and blueberry flavors dominate the grape variety, and this one adds chocolate and good acidity.

Rutini Malbec 2006 ($19). Ripe blackberry and plum flavors with firm tannins and full body.

If you want to compare Argentinian malbec with that from Cahors, France, here’s a good choice:

Domaine la Berangeraie Cahors Cuvee Maurin 2005 ($15). Good complexity with blackberry fruit, a hint of anise and black pepper.

Other wines

Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2005 ($22). We were pleasantly surprised to discover this luscious zinfandel. Jammy strawberry and allspice aromas with blackberry and strawberry flavors.

Helfrich Grand Cru Riesling 2005 ($25). Moderately priced this Alsace riesling has the austere profile the region is known for. Classic peach and pear flavors with the typical mineral and petrol notes that make this wine exquisite. A good match to fish and sushi.

Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2007 ($15). It’s truly a pity more people don’t drink this grape variety. Don’t worry about pronouncing the name, just soak in the highly fragrant aromas and gobs of pear and tropical fruit flavors. Gewurztraminer is a perfect match to spicy foods but it also does well with fowl.

Brandlin Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($85). These mountain vineyards produce some of the deepest, most complex wines — this is no exception.

Concentrated black berry and currant fruit with big tannins and a hint of coffee and cassis.