During the colder months we write more about red wine than white. But this week we take another direction to tell you about an underappreciated white grape called torrontes. No matter how cold it gets, there is still an occasion for white wine.

This emblematic Argentinian grape variety plays second to that country’s red malbec even though it is the only one indigenous to Argentina. But in summer months it is the wine of choice. Although we’re a long ways away from summer here, we assume that many of you are still pairing white wine with your fish and fowl.

We like torrontes, like viognier, for its enormous fragrance. You will pick up a swath of aromas ranging from peaches to orange peel. They also have good fresh acidity, which makes them an ideal food wine. Best of all, they are refreshingly dry and very reasonably priced.

These are also excellent wines to pair with sushi and spicy foods. Or, it’s just a great apertif.

There are actually several varieties of torrontes grown in Argentina. It won’t help you to know the names or the differences. One hot spot is Cafayate, high above sea level, where cool nights provide the best acidity and fruit.

It is believed that the torronte grape variety got its start in Malvasia and is a cross between muscat and California’s mission grape.

There are many of these wines are the market, but here are a few we have tasted:

Trivento Select Torrontes 2008 ($11). We love the refreshing acidity and floral aromas of this Argentina grape variety. Simple yet possessing citrus, tropical fruit flavors.

Colome Torrontes Alto Valle Calchaqui 2008 ($13.50). One of our favorites last summer, this wine has an amazing floral nose reminiscent of a gewurztraminer and muscat melange. Honeysuckle and citrus flavors and good acidity ought to make this a prime candidate to match with fish.

Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 2008 ($15). Sporting a very fragrant nose, this wine is pure joy. Honey and spice aromas followed by ripe peaches and hints of orange and lemon.

Alamos Torrontes 2006 ($12). Citrus, peach and jasmine flavors abound in this beauty from Catena Zapata.

Bodega Norton Torrontes ($11). From the Mendoza region of Argentina, this has more round and fruity character than many acidic versions. Pit and herbal flavors provide a soft landing for a lush wine.

If you want to experience more of this country’s wines, don’t forget malbec. A red wine, the grape is one of the five noble varieties grown in Bordeaux. Although considered a blending grape in France, it has greater potential in Argentina. It is known for its blueberry flavors and inky color.