Best pinot noir - from New Zealand?

By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr

Ask the average Joe walking down the street where Central Otago is located and you will probably get a blank stare.

Quizzing even knowledgeable wine aficionados could bring a smart aleck comment, like “I didn’t know they grew grapes in Pago Pago.” By the way where is Pago Pago?

Until meeting Quinton Quider, director for Wild Earth wines, we had uninformed ideas of Trinidad, Tobago and Pago Pago. Central Otago is an inland region on the South Island of New Zealand. Unlike most of the other New Zealand maritime-influenced winemaking areas, this region features a high desert/ alpine climate with warm summer days and cool nights, with the potential for dangerous frosts in the spring flowering season.   

Wild Earth and Quinton Quider are interesting stories. Quinton, a graduate of San Diego State, is a former California sea urchin diver, Australian abalone diver, and commercial fisherman, who met his wife while dealing blackjack on a cruise ship (She was a dancer in one of the shows). Currently he lives in Australia with his wife while commuting to supervise viticulture at Wild Earth’s 100 acres of mostly pinot noir vineyards.

Wild Earth recently won “Worlds Best Pinot Noir” at The International Wine Challenge in London, which is amazing considering that the vines are only seven  years old and this is only the third vintage for Wild Earth.

We recently met with Mr. Quider to taste the two pinot noirs that Wild Earth currently offers, including the one which won top international honors.

The style of Wild Earth’s pinot noirs seems to fall somewhere in the middle between the more subtle but complex burgundian style and the more fruit-driven, riper style of California. 

Following are our impressions:

Blind Trail Pinot Noir Central Otago 2006 ($27). Named for the many disappointed prospectors who came to this area in the 1860s after the California gold rush had petered out, this pinot noir is made in an easy-to-drink-now style that exhibited a nice cherry fruit nose with a hint of oak and some cola notes. In the mouth you get cherry cola flavors with a hint of sassafras. Very nice and easy to drink.

Wild Earth Pinot Noir Central Otago 2006 ($36). This is the wine that won the “World’s Best Pinot Noir” award recently. Cherry cola and a bit of earth in the nose with cherry cola flavors and a nice cinnamon spice that developed slowly in the glass. Medium bodied with nice balanced fruit and tannins that opened up in the glass over an hour. A very nice wine that marks this winery as one to watch.

Matua

Speaking of New Zealand, two Matua Valley reserve wines showed up on our radar screen recently and we want to share our tasting notes. Matua means “head of the family” in the native Maori language.

Matua Valley Reserve Chardonnay Gisborne 2005 ($13.50). This lovely wine yields a very nice lemon tangerine nose. In the mouth the taste is pear fruit balanced with crisp acidity. Medium bodied and easy to quaff.   

Matua Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2007 ($13.50). Distinctive bold grassy, and herbal nose that is so typical of Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Bright, ripe gooseberry, and citrus flavors with perfect palate cleansing acidity.

Wine picks

Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($18). Grapefruit and — could it be? — fig flavors. This is an excellent sauvignon blanc for those of you looking for some richness and depth in this grape variety.

Whitehaven Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($22). This New Zealand wine is consistently good year to year. Intense aromas of gooseberries and herbs, crisp acidity and citrus flavors.

Starborough Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2007 ($13). An amazing nose of grapefruit, lychee, and violets let’s you know you are in for a treat. Citrus fruit flavors and perfect acidity make this mouth watering wine a terrific package that would enhance most chicken and fish dished or hors d’oeuvres on a late summer evening.

Joseph Carr Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($20). This is an excellent value in the cabernet category. Soft tannins and ripe plum flavors make it an enjoyable drink without the need for cellaring. Black currants and dark cherries round out the flavors.

Nicholson Ranch Estate Pinot Noir 2006 ($38). We loved the balance in this excellent Sonoma Valley wine. Ripe cherry fruit with hints of cinnamon and clove, fruit forward flavors ranging from strawberries to raspberries. Excellent wine.

Girard Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2006 ($28). Those who like their petites drinkable will enjoy this concentrated petite sirah. Unlike many petite sirahs, it has a more lush texture instead of those brawny tannins and  turn teeth purple. Raspberry and blueberry notes.

Ca’Bianca Gavi 2006 ($17). Made from cortese grapes grown in the Piedmont, this beauty has a floral nose with simple apple and vanilla flavors. Elegant and refine.

Astica Torrontes 2007 ($8). If you can find this white wine, buy it. At this price, you can’t go wrong. From Argentina, torrontes is a very aromatic wine with citrus and grapefruit notes. The wine is simple and a good match to pork and chicken.