A few short years ago, the number of Washington state wines available in Maryland could be counted on one hand. Today 56 brands are available. Washington is number two in total gallons of wine produced, although it only represents 2 percent of total wine production in the United States, with California generating 90 percent of total gallons. However, the more we taste wines from Washington, the more we are impressed with the quality and unique terroir that make them a welcome visitor in our homes.    

We recently met with Butch Milbrandt and his knowledgeable wife, Lisa, to sample their recently released wines from their newly formed winery. Butch and his brother Jerry have been farmers their whole lives and in 1997 started farming grapes, which now includes 1,600 acres under vines.

The 13 estate vineyard sites are in the Columbia Valley and Wahluke Slope AVA’s in a self described  “remote, windswept, high desert dotted with sagebrush and tumbleweeds.”

Rainfall averages only about 8 inches a year, and the soil is sandy and rocky — ideal for grapes. Irrigation from the Columbia River provides the vines with water.

At the beginning the brothers sold their grapes to other winemakers, including the huge Chateau St. Michelle winery. But, they got frustrated seeing the names of their vineyards appearing on other wineries’ bottles, so they decided in 2005 to start their own wine-making venture aptly called Milbrandt Vineyards.        

Their wines are stylistically different, lodging some where between the big opulent fruit of Califonia’s wines and the more austere wines from France. We like this middle ground that allows the wines to be enjoyed by themselves or accompany food.

Following are our impressions of the Milbrandt wines, which all carry Washington State AVA’s on their labels.

Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Reisling 2006 ($13). This is a lovely wine for those who like a little sweetness in their wines or a beverage to accompany spicy Asian food. Some petrol in the nose that subsided, leaving a nice ripe peach, and melon nose. Nice ripe round peach flavors. This is their biggest seller.

Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Pinot Gris 2006 ($13). The nose tells you this is pinot gris, although a riper, rounder wine than typically what comes out of Italy. Flowers and peaches in the nose with crisp acidity and a nice minerality in the mouth. We loved this wine, our favorite white of the tasting.

Our two favorite red wines were the Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Merlot 2005 ($15), and the Milbrandt Vineyards Legacy Merlot 2005 ($25).

The Traditions is made with additions of cabernet sauvignon and a smidgen of barbera. It exhibits a classic black cherry nose, and flavors as well as a hint of mocha in the finish. Medium bodied, this wine represents a terrific value.

The Legacy Merlot offers amazing complexity. Cherry fruit and coffee in the nose, with a sophisticated European feel in the mouth that originates from additions of cabernet sauvignon and petite verdot. In the mouth you experience very nice berry flavors, with mocha accents. Our favorite red wine of the tasting.

Cognac

The Tesseron family has been in the wholesale Cognac business for many years and has recently begun to retail their own products. In addition to owning property in two of the best districts of Cognac — Grand Champagne and Petite Champagne — they are the owners of two prestigious and highly regarded chateaus in Bordeaux: Chateau Lafon- Rochet in St Estephe and Chateau Pontet-Canet in Paulliac.

Tesseron still blends it’s cognacs from ugni blanc, columbard and folle blanche grapes, and double distills the blend in copper pot stills. Many cognac producers no longer use columbard or folle blanche due to the difficulty in growing these varieties. But Tesseron believes they add complexity to the blend and still utilizes them.

We recently had a chance to taste three of their currently available cognacs and were very favorably impressed. These spirits are a step up from the mass-produced and widely available house brands, such as Couvoisier and Hennessy.    

Cognac Tesseron Lot No. 76 XO Tradition ($75). This is a blend of old stocks of Grande Champagne Cognac about 30 years old.  Dried fruit with fig dominating in the nose. Very fruity and smooth in the mouth with a flavor of dried fruit and nuts.

Cognac Tesseron Lot No. 53 XO Perfection ($150). Made from selected Grande Champagne stocks averaging over 50 years old. Caramel and apple pie scents and flavors with a hint of mocha. Incredibly elegant in the mouth, with an amazing finish. For the money, this is your best bet.

Wine of the week

El Coto Rioja Crianza 2002 ($12). We just love this wine year after year because it exemplifies what is good about Spanish riojas. Simple and luscious, it has enough body to make it a good match with pastas, hamburgers, poultry and more.

Black cherry flavors and hints of spice and oak.