Cyril Brun was on his way to the United States to promote his company’s champagne when he happened to catch a glimpse of a familiar label on two in-flight movies. First was the animated Shrek when a character threw a bottle of Veuve Clicquot across the floor. Then came Spiderman II. What are the odds two movies would feature his wine?

The odds are getting better, he says, as champagne labels become Hollywood icons. We all know that James Bond, for instance, liked Bollinger.

The ubiquitous Veuve Clicquot, like most champagne, is enjoying growing popularity nowadays. The trend does not seem like a bubble ready to burst soon. In fact, Champagne’s success presents a bit of dilemma — demand is outstripping availability.

By law, Champagne’s growers cannot simply plant more vines to fill the need. The land is there, but it takes a new law that won’t come easy, says Mr. Brun. The appropriate land is owned by a limited number of people who will profit handsomely from expansion and therein lies a political dispute.

Then there is global warming, a phenomenon that is impacting wine growing regions around the country. Champagne is so far north that grapes struggle to ripen before the first frost. You would think that a warming trend would make grape growing easier, but Mr. Brun says there is another side to riper grapes: a loss in acidity. He noticed his 1999 vintage champagne has riper flavors as a result of riper grapes. The chalky soil can add acidity, but traditional wine-making methods have to be reevaluated. He predicts that global warming will lead to more vintage champagnes – they are made in only the best years – and that champagne’s flavor profile will be more opulent. What’s the complaint with that?

Without more champagne on the market, prices are destined to continue their ascent. Veuve Clicquot raises its prices 3 to 5 percent a year. Let‘s hope for expansion.

With this kind of sales, champagne makers shouldn’t have to worry about getting people to drink champagne on days other than celebrations. But that’s a frequent complaint of champagne producers.

“It’s frustrating,” confesses Mr. Brun. “When champagne is served at a table, people at nearby tables wonder whose birthday is it?”

It may not be anyone’s birthday. It could be that someone just likes champagne or the celebration is merely being alive.

Although there are signs that champagne is selling year-round, sales will spike sharply in the coming months. Champagne is a fixture at New Year’s Eve bashes, but also around Christmas and even Thanksgiving.

We sometimes drink champagne on a leisurely Sunday afternoon when it’s cold outside and you need something to lift the spirits.  Even with their steep prices, you can find real champagne for $30 a bottle. The luxurious cuvees, though, can easily pass the $100 mark.

Veuve Clicquot favors pinot noir in its blend and that gives the champagne more weight and flavor.

Mr. Brun recently shared some his excellent products with us during a visit. Here are our favorites:

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label ($55). This non-vintage champagne accounts dominates Veuve Clicquot sales. It is one of the most well recognized labels and the price is still reasonable for this kind of quality. Good toasty flavors and crisp finish.

Veuve Clicquot 1999 ($75). The grapes were more mature when harvested this year, so the wine has an obviously aged but flavorful profile with a silky texture and good weight on the palate. Peach and honey notes with a hint of almonds. It can keep for another decade. We love this wine.

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1996 ($150). Made only in great vintages, this wine was born with the 1962 vintage as a tribute to the Widow (“veuve”) Clicquot who managed the property in the early 19th century at age 27 after her husband of just two years died. Her maiden name “Ponsardin,” was added to the label in 1810, but most people just shorten the name to Veuve Clicquot.

It also replicates the wine of her day by using the same blend and the grapes from the same vineyards but adding new technology that makes the wine less oxidized today. The 1996 has a mature personalilty but with good acidity, particularly on the finish. Citrus and toast notes. About 64 percent of it is pinot noir.

Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rose 2000 ($85). This property has 20 winemakers divided into teams of four who concentrate on each of the wines. Mr. Brun’s specialty is the vintage rose – good choice, if it was his to make. He stuck his neck out when he argued for a rose in the year 2000, a mediocre growing season at best. The only other time Veuve Clicquot made only a rose as its vintage wine was in 1997. He convinced others that while the general crop was not good enough for a regular vintage wine, it was good for the rose. He seems right if a taste is any indication.