A grape variety’s success can turn on a dime — or a movie. Take, for instance, merlot. It was pilloried in the 2004 movie “Sideways” when Miles refused to drink any more merlot during his miserable tour of California wineries.

Miles preferred pinot noir and the rest is history: pinot noir sales skyrocketed while merlot sales sagged.

It always has been a struggle for merlot because the grape variety is seen as blending grape popularized in the ’80s for its soft and abundant fruit. American producers don’t help its image when they make thin and weedy merlots for the mass audience.

It isn’t that way everywhere merlot is planted.  In Pomerol merlot is the most noble grape. Wines like Petrus — one of the most revered wines in the world — show that merlot can be as serious as cabernet sauvignon. And in this country, Washington state has been making consistently solid merlot for decades.

No one should feel ashamed to order merlot in a restaurant, the movie notwithstanding. You just need to find the serious producers and be willing to spend a bit more for your average wine.

Bad merlot is often vegetal, thin and overly ripe. In this condition, it is isn’t even good enough to sip. Match it with food and you’ll be even more disappointed. But a good merlot has body, complex flavors like black cherries, chocolate and spice. It has depth, fine tannins and long finish — products of caring producers. Don’t give up on it.

Here are a few recent merlots we tasted and liked:

Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot 2004 ($20). Using grapes grown in its Horse Heaven Hills vineyard, Canoe Ridge of Washington state makes an oustanding, big and luscious merlot. Lots of black cherries punctuated by leather and herbs. A medium-bodied wine to go with pork, lamb and game.

Hogue Reserve Merlot 2003 ($30). We loved this full-bodied, richly textured merlot from Washington state. It has soft mouthfeel and ripe raspberry flavors with a touch of mint. Elegant wine to serve with filet mignon.

St. Clements Napa Valley Merlot 2003 ($30). Blueberry notes make this an interesting merlot that has been blended with 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. Additional flavors include cola, licorice and chocolate. Rich mouthfeel.

Etude Napa Valley Merlot 2003 ($50). Abundant berry and sweet cherry flavors with mocha, coffee and ripe tannins to give it good complexity and length.

Sebastiani Alexander Valley Merlot 2004 ($25). Cigar box and berry nose with juicy blackberry and ripe plum flavors. Apparent oak and silky mouthfeel. Blended with cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petite verdot.

Clos du Val Merlot 2004 ($26). Generous dark fruit flavors with cinnamon and allspice notes and a hint of herbs. Medium body.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley Merlot 2004 ($42). Rich cherry flavors with notes of raspberries and red currants. Aromas include cigar box and anise. Silky tannins make is a very smooth textured wine.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Merlot 2004 ($18). Soft and drinkable merlot with black cherries and licorice notes. Silky tannins and medium body.

Sterling Vintner’s Collection Merlot 2004 ($13). Blended with 12 percent cabernet sauvignon, this is a round and simple merlot with soft blackberry notes and sweet vanillin oak.

Dry Creek Vineyard Merlot Dry Creek Valley 2004 ($19). Amazingly complex merlot for the price that’s blended with a little cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Nose of black cherries scented with cinnamon and herbs. Lush and complete in the mouth with cherry and cassis flavors and a long finish.

Simi Sonoma County Merlot 1004 ($20). Bright fruit reminscent of cherries and cranberries. Soft mouthfeel and hints of cedar and mocha. Blended with a bit of malbec and cabernet sauvignon for the structure.

Buena Vista Carneros Merlot 2003 ($21). Grown in a challenging appellation for merlot, the Buena Vista has coffee and cassis aromas and simple black cherry flavors.

Gundlach Bundschu Rhinefarm Vineyard Merlot 2003 ($29). Cranberry and allspice aromas lead off a generously flavored wine redolent of currants and cherries.

Wine of the week

Franciscan Sauvage 2005 ($35). From one of the most reliable and value producers in Napa Valley, Franciscan continues to roll out some beauties. This chardonnay from Carneros is wild yeast fermented and rich in pear and peach flavors. Soft mouthfeel and long finish make for a very enjoyable wine.