Peter Gago shoulders a heavy responsibility. He’s the current winemaker behind the legendary Grange, a handful of international wines so exalted that it belongs in a museum. Since the wine was first bottled in the 1950s, Grange has miraculously lived up to a reputation that has eluded even first-growth Bordeaux. The reason for such a iconic track record is the careful grooming of each winemaker who is slowly introduced to the process.

He isn’t given a chance to experiment. “We don’t change style, we optimize each vintage,” he said during a recent wine dinner sponsored by Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits and Sam’s Waterfront Cafe.

Grange may be Penfolds most famous wine, but it certainly isn’t its only premium wine. A great fan of this Australian producer, we regularly track its bevy of luxurious shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. Even if you cannot afford $280 for a bottle of Grange, there are several subsitutes to consider.

Mr. Gago said “Grange is just the carrot” to introduce consumers to other wines. Perhaps he meant “carat.”

We tasted several vintages of Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon and were blown away by their depth. We doubt that most wine consumers think of Australia for its long-lived cabernet sauvignons, but the 1990 still had life on it. The current vintage, the Penfolds Bin 707 ($90) had great promise.

The 2002 Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz ($35) had great power for the price, yet oodles of unadulterated fruit, balance and silky tannins. Mr. Pago called it a “textural experience.”

There are wines more reasonable in price. The frugal consumer should look to the 2003 Penfolds Bin 28 Kalmina Shiraz ($20) and the 2004 Bin 128 Shiraz ($22), two great wines that can be enjoyed now or cellared for several more years. Its Koonunga Hills series is in the $15 range. We tasted a 1976 Koonunga Hills Claret, a blend of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, that was still holding up.

Those lucky enough to have a seat for this spectucular tasting were treated to a great food and wine pairing. The menu included Queensland Spanner crab, crocodile tail, Australian beef, grilled Wagyu sirloin and more.

Here are our tasting notes of some of the wines:

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2006 ($13). Peach aromas followed by mineral and grapefruit flavors. It has been entirely barrel fermented but with no new oak, so the oak flavors are restrained.

Penfolds Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz-Grenache-Mouvedre 2003 ($20). A pleasant blend of grapes grown on 40-year-old vines. Plummy aromas, chocolate and red fruit flavors, especially raspberries. Rich in mid palate, finished with silky, dusty tannins.

Penfolds Bin 28 Kalmina Shiraz 2003 ($20).  Cherry and cinnamon aromas followed by ripe berry and plum flavors and the classic mocha notes associated with this grape variety. It showed a touch of vanilla and had rich texture. One of our favorite wines of the night.

Penfolds 128 CoonawaraShiraz 2004 ($22). More floral than the Bin 28, this wine sports pepper, cola and blackberry aromas. The palate shows off a wide range of layered flavors ranging from licorice to blackberries.

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2002 ($35). A very elegant but powerful wine with cellar potential. Cassis and blackberry notes with spice and easy tannins. Another one of our favorite wines of the night.

Penfolds Grange 2002 ($278). We have a couple of old Granges in our cellar that we just don’t want to drink because of their history. We lament that these wines are now well out of our price range, but we enjoyed this opportunity to taste such luxury. It’s hard to describe what makes this wine so good: is it the sheer power of the wine? Its depth of fruit? Character? Long finish? All of the above. It truly is one of those wines etched in our minds forever.

Wine of the Week

Taz Syrah Goat Rock Santa Maria Valley 2005 ($30). Intense berry fruit nose, with round and rich mouth-filling blackberry flavors and a hint of mocha. Just a little oak in the finish. A delightful wine.