To get there: There are several routes to get to the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge from here. The wobbly, yet straightest route is to take state Highway 42 east to Roseburg. Bring your Oregon highway map. Get on state Highway 138 and head up the North Umpqua River, past Diamond Lakes and the north entrance to Crater Lake.

Head south on Highway 97 to the Silver Lake cutoff. Take a left across the northern end of the Klamath Marsh and through the Klamath National Forest. About 9 miles past Silver Lake, take the Christmas Valley turnoff. At Christmas Valley, head cross-country toward Riley. (Yes, these are all paved roads.) Turn right on state Highway 395 and head up to Riley, which is at the intersection with U.S. Highway 20. Turn right at Riley and go to Burns.

Head through Burns and just out of town on Route 78 to the Malheur turnoff. Go right, heading south, on state Highway 205 for about 30 miles. You'll come to a spot known as the narrows, where the waters of Malheur and Harney lakes mix. Turn left and follow the signs to the refuge headquarters.

Driving tips: Snow and/or icy roads are possible this time of year passing Crater Lake and even in Eastern Oregon. Take snacks. Stores are few between Roseburg and Silver Lake/Christmas Valley, as are gas stations.

Round trip mileage: Expect to put 1,000 miles on your car if you add Round Barn, the Diamond Volcanic National Monument, Frenchglen or any other side trips.