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Solid value in Spanish imports
By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr
Tuesday, April 3, 2007 2:20 PM PDT
Howard Friedman has a job many of would like: he travels to Spain several times a year in search of good wine.
He even calls his adventures “business,” or more specifically, South River Imports.
We would call that fun.
Mr. Friedman has embarked on a new career in getting Spanish wines into this part of the country. The first few he has brought us from the Jumilla region are good examples of what remains to be discovered in Spain.
We have made Spain our new area of concentration this year because of its great wine values. Consumers will be rewarded with lots of fruit for the buck, although finding the best wines can be like picking through the cast-offs at a Saturday flea market.
Cursed with a climate that produces an over-abundance of acidity, Spain can produce astringent tempranillo - the country's flagship grape - that isn't always friendly to the palate. Excessive temperatures can also lead to overly ripe or cooked wines. In Jumilla, though, the softer grape variety is monastrell, known in France and elsewhere as mourvedre.
Jumilla is in the southeastern region of Spain about 60 miles from the Mediterrean coast. The limestone soil and elevation (1,400 to 2,600 feet) are fertile areas for vines, which are grown in “basos,” or bushes in the shape of goblets. Irrigation isn't allowed except for the first couple of years after the vines are planted. The scarcity of water and summer heat spikes are challenges for grape growers.
Mr. Friedman is working on getting these wines better distributed in the region, but your local merchant can order them from Monument Distributor. Meanwhile, some of the following wines can be found at Mills Wine and Spirits, Kyma and Jalapeno's restaurant in Annapolis, Maryland:
Bodegas Bleda Montesinos Monastrell-Tempranillo 2005 ($11). Fermented only in stainless steel, this clean and refreshing blend is meant to be drunk young. Bright color, candy aromas, youthful berry flavors.
Bodegas Bleda Montesinos Crianza 2003 ($13). This is an incredibly good wine for the price and our favorite of the lineup. Made mostly from monastrell grapes, it abounds in black cherry and plum flavors with notes of cassis, cinnamon, spice and sweet vanillin oak. Long finish.
Bodegas Bleda Monstrell 2005 ($11). Generous plum and cassis flavors with a touch of oak.
Bodegas Bleda Divus 2004 ($25). There is a lot of depth in this blend of monastrell (95 percent) and merlot. Soft, rich texture with jammy black cherry flavors and strong vanillin oak, long and peppery finish. The merlot softens the wine considerably and rounds off the tannins to make a very quaffable wine. This unfiltered wine has been aged in small Allier oak barrels for 9 months.
Bodegas Bleda Montesinos Macabeo 2005 ($11). This white wine is made entirely from macabeo grapes very prolific in Spain and southern France. Strong in aromatics, it is light and refreshing on the palate. Notes of pears with citrus aromas and crisp acidity.
Wine of the week
Borsao Campo de Borja Red Wine 2005 ($7-8). One of our all time favorite incredible values. 75 percent garnacha (grenache), and 25 percent tempranillo this Spanish beauty is a delight to drink. Red cherry, strawberry nose with red cherry flavors a hint of pepper, and good palate cleansing acidity. We buy this by the case and serve it as our house wine. |